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View Full Version : My turn for a HG!


andymlm
02-19-2008, 04:55 PM
I was expecting to have to do mine and I was planning to get a spare head rebuild it with lapped in valves etc but if course I have coolant leaking down the block and no spare head!

Consultation with my engine shop advised to do the gasket NOW! as theres no oil water mix or overheating so will lesson the potential damage/clean up, theres never a good time for these things so Ill just get in with it, at least I will get a bit of grunt back as I will get the valves decoked and reseated whilst its off.

Adam
02-19-2008, 05:23 PM
I would strongly recommend the PRT kit too, really does aid the cooling of the K-series.

samsBRM
02-19-2008, 05:31 PM
whats the PRT kit?

Dom
02-19-2008, 05:49 PM
Remote thermostat isn't it, though that was only useful in cars where the engine wasn't in the front?

Adam
02-19-2008, 07:06 PM
The PRT kit replaces the standard thermostat. The standard one basically dumps coolant into the engine at a preset temperature initiating something called 'thermal shock' where the block is suddenly exposed to rapid temperature changes. With the changes in temperature comes movement in the block through expansion/contraction, etc.

The PRT kit basically creates a constant flow of coolant from the offset so no sudden temp changes, therefore reducing the likelihood of the head gasket failing. The engine takes a wee bit longer to warm up but that just means more sensible driving.

hth :D

andymlm
02-19-2008, 08:37 PM
yes I want to get one of those, the part numbers are on here arent they?

Just been reading an old article in the PPC mag about the K series and apart from all the usual problems the exhaust manifold also passes too much heat to the head softening the gasket and head material!

I will see how the head work goes and if sucessful I will add it to my services!

We did a similar job on a B16 Vtec a few years ago and picked up 16bhp! that was a 50k mile example and the exhaust valves where melted, Im interested to see the condition of the valves/seats on my 75k VVC head.

andymlm
02-19-2008, 08:45 PM
Any idea where the info is about those remote stats?

Adam
02-19-2008, 09:43 PM
Any idea where the info is about those remote stats?

Landrover MLS gasket part no LVB500190
Oil Ladder part no LCN000140L
PRT Kit part no's PCH001190 and PEL000040

tada :D

pinola
02-19-2008, 10:37 PM
Adam for the PRT kit do you need any other parts like hose joiners clips? Also I saw somewhere there is an even newer design of the stat in the kit, do you get it with the kit or is that another part number? needed

Adam
02-20-2008, 08:52 AM
You need one joiner to connect to the top hose and I used jubilee clips in place of the ones supplied as I prefer them, there is a fantastic guide on mg-rover.org. Your right there is a new stat, I don't have the part number for this to hand but the supplier I got the parts from new this and we ordered that as well.

andymlm
02-20-2008, 11:39 AM
Any reccomended suppliers on these?

Cant find the guide on mgrover org anyone have it?

Adam
02-20-2008, 12:34 PM
I got my bits from Whitehouse in Crayford. Although at trade prices :mml:

Voila :D

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=183507

andymlm
02-20-2008, 01:49 PM
Great thanks Adam,

Ooooh another question is there a specific head bolt socket required?

Adam
02-20-2008, 04:00 PM
Hmm....don't think there's a specific socket, although they are the inerted Torx type (Torx sockets required in other words).

One thing I would recommend though, check the clearance between the head bolts and the sump. We found that in two places the bolts touched the sump very slightly so we actually trimmed down the top of 2 of the bolts to avoid any contact. Maybe check out your sump to see if there are any indentations in it from the old bolts. Just worth considering.

Ooh, just remembered as well, if your using the new LR oil ladder you may have to trim down the 2 'fins' in the sump as its slightly thicker. All helps clearance, etc.

Frekkel
02-20-2008, 05:38 PM
a slower warming engine isn't always better. I just fitted the regular thermostat.

andymlm
02-21-2008, 01:06 PM
Well its off and pleased to find no oil/water mix all very clean, and the sealant was hanging off the gasket right where it was leaking down the front of the block, so caught it just at the right time.

andymlm
02-22-2008, 09:40 AM
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a336/MLMOTORSPORT/Picture091-1.jpg

The head had been off before fairly recently by the looks of it theres corrosion round all the fire rings which did not make me smile!, see what happens this afternoon at the machine shop

Adam
02-22-2008, 09:53 AM
A bit of scotch brite will clean that up a treat. :D

andyr
02-24-2008, 11:03 AM
Just so you can save yourself a couple of quid..

You qwon't need to buy a joining piece, just use the one on the Land Rover kit, as I did.

Cheers,

Andy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/craneboy/100_0851.jpg

Adam
02-24-2008, 11:07 AM
Good idea there Andy, honestly didn't think of doing that.

Welcome to the site by the way :D

andymlm
02-24-2008, 02:01 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, The corrosion round all 4 firerings was pretty bad but the boys at the shop reckon it will skim ok, so some good news, Im missing the thing already!

andymlm
03-01-2008, 10:40 AM
got the head on yesterday skimmed up lovley all the corrosion has gone, fitted the PRT kit and a set of magnecor leads while I was in there,

It fired up first time and ran well.............

The sodding thermostat housing leaks!!!

I had removed the whole rail off the car to do the thermostat change to ensure it went back together properly and it promptly leaked after warming up!

A bit annoying...... I also found the PRT setup gets in the way of the std airbox, I thought about reworking the hoses but ordered an induction kit instead, along with some new inlet gaskets for when I take off the bloody manifolds next week to do the leak!

andyr
03-01-2008, 08:37 PM
It was a bit tight getting the pipe in, but it does go on.

Sounds like you may have knackered the 'O' ring on the thermostat housing.
It will need replacing if you have to take the metal pip off anyhow.
24mm 'O' ring from memory.

Oh and give it a bit of a WD40 when trying to put the pipe back over it, usually helps it on quite nicely.

HTH

Andy

andymlm
03-04-2008, 11:16 AM
Yeah it was the two halves of the sat housing joint, bloody crap design! anyone done an alloy version?

andymlm
03-04-2008, 12:28 PM
Sod it, the O ring is leaking now! glad I checked it before putting the manifolds back on!